Showing posts with label wheel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wheel. Show all posts

Thursday, February 12, 2015

D.I.Y.: Wheel Spacers on a G35 sedan

Guest Blogger on:
Wheel Spacers on a G35 Sedan

Thank you for having me as a guest blogger! I recently installed wheel spacers on my 2006 G35 sedan, and I'll take you through my thought process and some of my considerations.

Figure 1: Overall Pictures of Before and After.

The Problem: 

Wheels looked odd with a "tucked" look after lowering the suspension by about 1.25" from stock height. Normally I don't care too much about pure aesthetics, but it was enough to annoy me into looking for a solution.

The Options:

1) The best option is always to get a set of wheels with the proper width and offset to suit your application and tastes. 
Normally I would go for this option, but I actually really like the look of the stock 18's, I prefer using OEM wheels, and I just purchased new tires, so I wasn't about to spend $1000+ just to get a nicer stance. My current setup is 18x7.5 +45 offset with 235/45/18 tires. If I was starting from scratch (i.e. car sitting on blocks), I'd get a set of lightweight 18x9 +30 offset, running 255/40/18.

2) The next best option is to widen the track with the use of wheel spacers. This is what I used. I will say that there is a lot of negative hype about wheel spacers, and for good reason. After doing a lot of technical reading, I've come to the conclusion that concerns are generally well founded. A lot of the horror stories result from people not using common sense. However, spacers can be used safely (and they are, even on AutoX courses and on the track) if you know a few key things:

   a) They must be "hubcentric" spacers. This properly locates the axis of rotation between the wheel, spacer, and wheel hub by means of features on the spacer which aligns all three components. The diameter of the spacer hub should match the wheel hub and wheel exactly (female on one side, male on the other). This is a much more reliable way of getting everything lined up properly compared to relying on the lugs to get everything centered. The consequence of misalignment is tooth-jarring vibration at high speeds.

   b) Proper studs should be used. For those with smaller spacers (5-10mm), this likely means removing your factory studs and replacing them with longer ones. For larger spacers (15mm+), this means using spacers with studs already attached. 

Drawbacks to Spacers:

1) Increased scrub radius. This is the same problem that would result from using the same width wheel/tire but lowering the offset. The axis of rotation from steering movements is no longer in the center of the contact patch. The major symptom is the increased effect of 'tramlining,' which is the phenomenon of your tires wanting to grab and follow features on an uneven road surface. More on this later.

2) Increased wear on wheel bearings due to lengthened lever arm. Again, this is a problem that is shared with reducing the offset of your wheels. I view bearings as wear items, and if I have to replace them 10% sooner - so be it!

3) Increased rotational inertia and unsprung mass. This one is unique to spacers, as using wheels with a different offset does not inherently add any mass. The extent of the effects is usually not noticeable, as the spacers are made of lightweight 6061-T6 aluminum alloy and the weight is added close to the axis of rotation. I personally did not notice any dynamic differences from the result of adding this weight.

The spacers I used:

I picked up 25mm hub centric spacers with integrated studs, made by a company called Precision European Motorwerks. The studs secured in the spacer are Metric 10.9 studs (equivalent of Grade 8 bolts), and the spacer simply bolted to my wheel hub with the supplied M12 nuts:

Figure 2: Spacer Install.


I initially found them on Amazon for ~$62 a pair and they had good reviews. I then checked eBay to see if they listed there as well, and sure enough they were - and for only $55 a pair! I purchased two pairs, and they arrived at my house in just two days. There are many "brand name" options out there, but lets face it - they are all just machined aluminum. As long as you trust the quality of the machining, all of the hubcentric spacers are going to be about the same.

Installation:

They installed without issue. Before bolting on, I checked for play between the spacer and the hub and also between the spacer and the wheel. It was dead nuts on. The diameter spec was almost certainly within 0.001". The quality of the machining was excellent. No problems trusting the supplied metric 10.9 grade studs.

I applied copper anti-seize lube to the back face of the spacers and to the OEM studs since I probably won't be touching them again until I need to replace my rotors again. Tightened to 85 ft-lbs. I used a 2x4 and the power sliding seat to keep pressure on the brake pedal while I tightened down the fronts.

The rears came out a little further than I was expecting, so I had to roll the fenders a bit. Used a heat gun and a 2" SCH40 PVC pipe, about 2.5' long. Each side took about 20 minutes to roll and was relatively painless.

Impressions:

For the most part, the spacers are not noticeable at all from the driver's seat. I was certain that widening the track by 2" would have a tangible effect, but I have not noticed it at all in the month I've had them on so far. I also did not notice the effective decrease in spring rate by the lengthening the lever arm. I have noticed some of the tramlining effect, although I'm unsure if that is just due to my heightened sensitivity to this.

The biggest difference is just in the stance - the way the car looks. My goal was to improve the look of the stance, and these spacers achieved that goal without hurting my wallet. Mission accomplished!

Figure 3: Front Wheels before & after.

Figure 3: Front Wheels before & after.

I often find myself doing double-takes on my car now as I'm walking away after parking. An unknowing observer would probably be wondering where the hot girl is hiding that I keep turning around to check out.

Best,
Guest Blogger.

Saturday, August 17, 2013

INFO: Tire Cleaning and Shining Products

Information on Tire Products:
Tire Cleaning and Shining Products

Aiming for a long-lasting, non-browning product that doesn't sling and protects against cracking.
Sling is when the applied product gets onto the car from driving.

One of the first steps in getting into tire cleaning is understanding the differences and benefits between Water-based vs. Oil-based vs. Silicone-based products:

From website: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/car-care-discussion/1960040-water-based-oil-based-silicone-based-tire-shine.html
" Good Silicone / Not so good Silicone:
If a product contains hydrocarbon (petroleum) distillates, this does not necessarily make that product harmful but it does depend upon which petroleum distillate is used and whether it has been further distilled (purified).

a) Water - based silicone dressings - usually a milky-white liquid, (Polydimethylsiloxane (PDS) that doesn’t contain petroleum distillate; silicone oils, waxes, or solvents that can harm rubber and/or vinyl over time. Water-based dressings use a combination of natural oils and polymers to offer a non-greasy, satin finish. Some of these products also contain ultra violet radiation (UVR) blocking agents to help keep tires from cracking, fading and hardening. Most, if not all water-based dressings are environmentally friendly / biodegradable, whereas solvent-based silicone is not.

b) Solvent-based silicone dressings - usually a clear greasy liquid, (Dimethal (DMS) that contain petroleum solvents as a cleaning agent, they remove the elasticity from vinyl, rubber and paint; causing them to evaporate out of the substrate, leaving behind a dry inflexible surface. Most high gloss products are based upon DMS silicone oil, the difference between water and solvent based is in the carrier system used. Solvent based products use a hydrocarbon silicone to suspend the product. When you apply it, the solvent evaporates leaving the dressing's active ingredients (Silicone oil) behind; solvent-based silicone is not environmentally friendly / biodegradable.

Silicone's are primarily used to modify or improve certain characteristics; they are sometimes added as a lubricant to provide spread ability thereby making a product easier to apply. The automotive industry uses silicone as component parts (see polymerization) in its plastic, vinyl, rubber, paints, and fiberglass as well as in polishes and waxes.

Silicone (Siloxane) oils provide an excellent lubricant that when used as a carrier system in polishes and waxes that makes them easier to apply and remove When used in paints and other coatings it ensures an even flow through a spray nozzle ensuring an even product distribution.
It not silicone that you need worry about, just the 'type' (what its formulated with) you need to be aware of." 

General Tire Information: The Detailing Spot - Tire Detailing

TIRE CLEANING PRODUCTS
Standard Products:
Black Magic: Tire Wet
BlueMagic: Supreme Tire Shine
Armor All (AA) Extreme: Tire Shine Spray / Tire Shine Gel / Tire Shine Aerosol
Mother's: Back-To-Black Tire Shine / FX Tire Shine / Reflections Tire Care
Meguiar's: Endurance Tire Spray / Endurance Tire Spray Aerosol
Eagle One: Tire Shine Spray / Tire Shine Gel

High-End Products [$10+] :
303 Products: Aerospace Protectant
Duragloss: Aerosol Tire Gloss / Tire and Rubber Dressing / Wet Look Tire Shine
Forever Car Care Products: Tire Gel
Griot's Garage: Long-Lasting Tire  Dressing
Poorboy's World: Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum: Opti-Bond Tire Gel
Stoner: More Shine
Surf City Garage: Beyond Black Tire Pro
Tuf Shine: Spray and Shine / Tire Clearcoat*
Zaino: Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss

Tire cleaner for heavy-duty cleaning jobs:
Black Magic: Bleche Wite Tire Cleaner

Other Products:
Adams VRT: Adam's Super VRT Tire & Trim Dressing
Chemical Guys: Tire and Vinyl Dressings
Detailer's: DP Tire Gel
Rubber Lube
Hi-Temp Grape
* The Tire Clearcoat is a semi-permanent coating. 

Written on July 23rd, 2012, Published on August 17th 2013.

Sunday, July 22, 2012

INFO: Changing the Wheels & Tire

Information for a simple car project on,
Changing the Wheel & Tire Setup

This project is one of the simplest out there. Wheel and tire (W&T) setups greatly influence the car's appeal because of the amount of exterior surface area W&T's cover. W&T could better performance as well, depending on the sort of performance gains aiming for.

Ideally, the ECU should be changed when changing the W&T setup. This is because the odometer and speedometer are programmed with factory settings, using measurements of the original W&T setup to calculate speed and miles. Changing an ECU is costly and might not worth the $$, so highly recommend staying within a 3% difference in overall W&T diameter.

Great websites to check how different setups compare:
Comparing 4 different W&T setups: 1010Tires - Tire Size Calculator
Comparing Speedometer readings: TacomaWorld - Speedometer Difference
Informative Pictures of W&T Measurements: Discount Tire America's Tire - Tire Calculator
Wheel Offset Calculator: 1010Tires - Wheel Offset Calculator

Starting point for researching wheel technology:
Gravity vs. Forged wheels: Wheel Construction
PROs and CONs of different castings and forgings: Wheel Strength

Starting point for researching performance gains:
Example of BMW 3 series going from 16" to different 17" wheel: Road Wheel Weights...



Shop for deals and recommend using TireRack.com as a general reference for W&T information, pricing, and review.

Things to note about changing W&T setups:
- Most Joe's wouldn't have access to a tire changer or a tire mounting and balancing machine. If purchasing W&T from separate vendors, make sure to factor in the labor costs of mounting and balancing the tires with the wheels from a local shop into the total price.
For example: $(4 x Tire Price) + $(4 x Wheel Price) + $(Labor Price, if applicable) = Total Price