Thursday, April 30, 2015

D.I.Y. MAINTENANCE: Fixing Climate Control Buttons on a Mercedes-Benz W208 CLK Class

Do-It-Yourself car maintenance on,
Fixing Climate Control Buttons
on a Mercedes Benz W208 CLK Class

The climate control buttons on a W208 tend to break. Unfortunately re-manufactured parts typically cost over $300 and the part isn't interchangeable with all other MB cars in that time period. The buttons that broke in my case were the two "AUTO" buttons on the left and right, and also the + and - button for the fan. Without the - button, there is not an easy way of turning off the fan.
Figure 1: The fan that never sleeps.
I came across this post and thought I stumbled upon $290.
BenzWorld Forum: Is there a DIY to fix buttons on Climate Control unit???
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208-clk-class/1455775-there-diy-fix-buttons-climate-control-4.html

First step was to take off the broken buttons. These buttons pop off quite easily when using a small flathead. See figure 2 for the front side and back side of the buttons that were broken.
Figure 2: Left image shows front side of the buttons broken and the right image shows the back side.
After popping off the buttons and inspecting what was broken inside the climate control housing, I was able to figure out what needed fixing. I tore out the cracked plastic bits that were inside the climate control unit for a better look at the problem. Figures 3, 4, and 5 reveal a square white button of the auto and fan buttons. This square button with a semi-hollow hole in the center is not engaging when the exterior buttons were pressed. Problem identified!
Figure 3: Driver's side AUTO button.
Figure 4: Passenger's side AUTO button.
Figure 5: +/- Fan Button.

Figure 6: From left to right: 1000 grit 3M sandpaper,
wooden utensils from Sprinkles, E6000 adhesive.
Cue the DIY motto: If it has been done before by someone else, then I can probably do this too. I didn't have any rubber erasers laying around and did what every DIYer does in this situation. I went searching for everything else I did have that was expendable. What I came up with was born from a little of this-is-what-I-want-to-use and this-is-all-I-have-without-spending-a-dime.

Parts:
(1) 1000 Grit 3M sandpaper
(2) Wooden Utensils
(1) E6000 Adhesive

How the wooden utensils were rounded at the end gave me an idea. The curved shape will be perfect for slotting into the AUTO button slots. One of the big advantages of using wood is the ease it shears off an edge. And after careful consideration of the +/- button, this is what I came up with.
Figure 7: Wooden bits glued together. View 1 of 2.
Figure 8: Wooden bits glued together. View 2 of 2.
Figure 9: Wooden bits for the AUTO button. Note the use of spacers for stability. View 1 of 2.
Figure 10: Wooden bits for the AUTO button. View 2 of 2.
Figure 11: Wooden bits for the +/- Fan button. Note the hole for the needle in the inside cover. View 1 of 2.
Figure 12: Wooden bits for the +/- Fan button. Note the use of spacers to get around the dividers. View 2 of 2.
A whole lot of cutting and sanding took place to get these puppies to fit in their finished state. I would have preferred to use 800 grit or 400 grit sand paper instead but that required going to the store. End result? Success. A whole new world of DIY opened up to me today. Michael's, please keep your wood stock piles full. What a dazzling place I never knew, that could serve car DIY projects well.
Figure 13: Wooden bits installed 
Extra DIY mini-project:
Figure 14: DIY radio/climate control removal tool.
Instead of buying tools to pop out radios or Climate Control Panels for vehicles like the W208, cut up an old credit card. Certain credit cards provide different rewards. Some are made of plastics that are stiffer than others. This home built tool can pop out the radio or climate control if necessary. When fixing the climate control buttons in this project, I used the following DIY removal tool to pop out the radio and climate control first. The radio was popped out to give me access to the back of the climate control module. In doing this, I found the climate control springs to be a lot stiffer than the springs in the radio.

Figure 15: DIY radio/climate control removal tool slotted in the climate control module.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

WATCH: Greatest Driving Roads

List of YouTube to Watch:
Greatest Driving Roads
series on evo by Henry Catchpole

The following is a list of visually tasteful videos to watch on a lazy Saturday. These videos are provided by evo and well narrated by Henry Catchpole.

In order from good to okay:
i) Aston Martin N430 on Scotland's greatest driving road | evo GREAT DRIVES
ii) The greatest driving road in the world? Jaguar F-type V8 S in Romania | evo
iii) The greatest driving road in the world? Porsche Boxster GTS on Majorca | evo
iv) McLaren MP4-12C The Supercar Road Trip

Extra clips
i) The popular TopGear episode that made famous the Transfăgărășan Highway
The greatest driving road in the world! - Now in Full HD - Top Gear - Series 14 - BBC
ii) Older TopGear video about Switzerland Driving Heaven
Searching for Driving Heaven in 3 Supercars! (HQ) - Top Gear - Series 10 - BBC


Aston Martin N430 on Scotland's greatest driving road | evo GREAT DRIVES

The greatest driving road in the world? Porsche Boxster GTS on Majorca | evo

The greatest driving road in the world? Jaguar F-type V8 S in Romania | evo

McLaren MP4-12C The Supercar Road Trip

The greatest driving road in the world! - Now in Full HD - Top Gear - Series 14 - BBC

Searching for Driving Heaven in 3 Supercars! (HQ) - Top Gear - Series 10 - BBC


Thursday, April 9, 2015

INFO: Stabilizer (Anti-Sway) Bars

Information on:
Stabilizer (Anti-Sway) Bars

The following figure from the YouTube channel ‘Engineering Explained’ is adequate.
Figure 1: From the following link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_liGnV3PTiQ
The same assumptions from strut tower brace post apply:
To simplify the explanation, the following figures use the following assumptions:
- suspension components (bars/springs/dampers) carry no weight/mass
- wheels carry no weight/mass
- car frame/chassis is semi-rigid body and has mass/weight (Semi-rigid meaning the body can flex under certain loading. Flex is represented by moments in rigid body structure.)
- control arms are pinned and the top strut tower is fixed supported

At Rest/Driving Straight Forward (without Strut Tower Brace or Sway Bar):
When a vehicle is at rest or driving smoothly forward, the weight of the vehicle is the only acting force on the car. Figure 2 represents the weight of the vehicle in green about the centroid of the vehicle's rigid body.
Figure 2: Simplified cross-section of car at rest or moving forward without stabilizer bar.

Under Bump (without Strut Tower Brace or Sway Bar):
A stabilizer bar links motions of the left suspension system with the right by connecting the control arms. Without a stabilizer bar, the left control arm can go up/down independently from the right control arm. In other words, the left wheel can be traveling on a 3-D plane much different than the right wheel. Unequal control arm travel between sides translates to vehicle body roll for the driver under cornering or bumps. Vehicle body roll may be contributed from car body flex, unequal left/right suspension travel, or a combination of both.
Figure 3: Simplified cross-section of car w/o stabilizer bar going over a bump.
Similar to the strut tower post, too much body roll is undesirable because it feels unstable. Car body roll is less predictable when a soft suspension system has no stabilizer bar. Tire grip is dependent on outside wheel for lateral grip (left/right) and rolling grip (driving forward).

Under Bump with Stabilizer Bar (without Strut Tower Brace):
A stabilizer bar stiffens the overall suspension system by connecting the left and right sides together. This stiffening helps distribute the forces exerted from one side of the car to the overall suspension system.
Figure 4: Simplified cross-section of car with stabilizer bar going over a bump.

CLOSING THOUGHTS

In theory, a stabilizer bar stiffens the overall suspension system by linking the left and right control arm together. There are other options to achieve the effects of a stiffer stabilizer bar. For example increasing the damping stiffness or spring stiffness stiffens the overall suspension. There is a point where the suspension system is too stiff for a given driving application and adding a stiffer stabilizer bar is counter-effective.

In short, when should I use a stiffer stabilizer bar?
Stabilizer bar options are effective when there is unused tire grip in given driving application or when understeer/oversteer is preferred in a given driving style.

i) For example if you are mainly driving the vehicle as a daily driver, chances are there is tire grip to spare. Changing a stabilizer bar is effective in reducing body roll and gaining confidence in turns. Be mindful that daily driving is not the same as racing. Be mindful of the consequences if you choose to drive with overconfidence.

ii) If you have a set driving style and want to increase/decrease understeer or oversteer, than stabilizer bars options are effective. If controlling understeer or oversteer is desired by changing sway bar setup only, please see figure 1 or the YouTube video by Engineering Explained for a good explanation on what to change for a desired effect.

If you are racing then I recommend being more creative in suspension tuning before changing stabilizer bars. Stabilizer bars are usually the cheapest and easiest suspension option to change, therefore change it last. Change springs/dampers or camber/caster plates first. Depending on the modified suspension setup, it is possible to get faster by getting rid of the stabilizer bar. A stabilizer bar might have countering effects to your particular suspension setup. It is possible to make the overall suspension too stiff and the car starts driving too loose, leading to slower lap times.

Lastly, I do not recommend changing springs/dampers at the same time as sway bars for project cars. Without knowing how different parts and products work with one another on a particular chassis, you’d be throwing darts blindly on a dart board and hoping to hit a bulls eye suspension setup. Know what kind of suspension you want, research, and change parts one at a time to verify you are on track towards your goal.

NB Miata Forum Discussion on Running No Sway Bar:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=555898

Shaykh, from Fat Cat Motorsports, commenting on Stabilizer Bars:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhWZ57baTOw

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

USED CAR: 1st CURSE/BENEFIT of Buying Modern Used Cars - Electrical/Sensor Issues & Supply

Reminder about buying used cars:
1st CURSE/BENEFIT 
of Buying Modern Used Cars:
Electrical Issues & Sensor Supply

This problem will be commonplace as more manufacturers incorporate sensor technology into their vehicles and vehicle design.

CURSE: COST
Figure 1: Old Brake Light Switch from MB dealership.
I recently replaced a brake light switch for a MB (P/N A0015459509).
Dealership charged me $33.38. If I wasn't in a hurry, I could have bought the part for about $25 online.

At the end of 2005 it cost about $14.
http://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w208/125080-bas-esp-abs-problem-diy-repair.html

That is about $10-$20 more in 10 years for a part that initially costs about $14 MSRP. If the part is no longer produced, the cost curse is even worse.

BENEFIT: COMMON PROBLEM & SOLUTION ROOTED OUT
The benefit of buying a car that has been on the market a while is the increasing supply of forum advice. Common problems are rooted out by others similar to your car's life stage. Data supply allows for faster problem identification and ease of finding DIY solutions.

For example, the NB Miata project has a speedometer problem. Part replacements for the source costs $150+ for new. A little digging around on the web yielded this affordable DIY solution for less than $10: http://revlimiter.net/blog/2012/09/dead-nb-speedometer-fix/

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

AUTOX: 2015 Autocross Solo Guide - Chapter 8: Misc Topics

Guest Blogger Information on:
2015 Autocross Solo Guide
Chapter 8: Misc Topics

Chapter 8 - Misc Topics

This chapter will serve as a catch-all for things that didn't fit or that I forgot to include in previous chapters.
Bring List - Keep a "bring list" of things you will need at autox. I keep all my stuff in a box so I don't have to think about it anymore. Some things include hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, water, tire pressure gauge, chalk, jack, etc. We shouldn't need too much, and I should have most of it anyway.

Tire Pressure - Tire pressures are going to increase a good bit as you race the car. I usually end up letting out as much as 3-5psi from the front tires. You need to experiment with the cars and see what their "happy" place is. For the Miata, I expect the heat to be evenly spread, or maybe slightly warmer in the front. Pressures should stabilize by the 3rd or 4th run, depending on how much time there is between runs. Adjusting tire pressures is another tool you can use to adjust how the car behaves. For some FWD cars in stock class, I've seen people run as high as 50psi in the rear to get the car looser. I think starting out at 35psi all around won't be a bad idea for the Miatas.
Spraying Tires - I used to be a big tire-sprayer. I have weed sprayer that I fill with water before the event. Fairly common with FWD/AWD cars, you just get the front tires way too hot. However, I've found spraying tires tends to heat cycle them out faster than if I had just left them alone. Anyway, the Miata will be much kinder to its tires and we shouldn't need to spray them, except maybe in the dead heat of summer when you guys are codriving without much time in between runs.

Working - Pay attention when you work the course. Never turn your back to the car, and try not to be in a potential path that it could spin out to. When watching to see if a driver knocks over any cones, be sure to watch the back wheels of the car - it's surprising how many knocked over cones I miss because I'm watching the front of the car and not the rear of it. Working the course is also a great chance to see how other cars are being driven. Pay special attention to the "fast" guys, see how they drive the course and what kind of lines they are taking.
Launching - Autoxing will be a good chance to practice launching the car. How hard you want to launch is up to you. In the Evo, I actually prefer not to launch to preserve clutch and tires. With the Mini, I launch all the time. You can gain a few tenths right from the start just by launching well. It also helps get you in the 100% right from the start mindset. Try launching around 3k rpm. Between dropping the clutch and slipping it, I'd say somewhere a little closer to dropping it will do. Adjust accordingly based on how that went. There's a surprising difference between launching cold tires and hot tires, so keep that in mind as well.

10 & 2, 9 & 3 - Keep your hands on the wheel at all times except shifting. Some people say your hands should be totally glued to the wheel, others say you should use the "shuffle" method. I'm in the 'keep your hands on the wheel' camp. Typically for most cars, you shouldn't have to turn the wheel more than you would have to to keep your hands on the wheel. If you're steering more than that, you're probably steering too much.

Downshifting - There may be times where eventually you will want to downshift. It could be from 2nd to 1st, or 3rd to 2nd. Be sure to practice heel-toe-downshifting on the street if possible. As far as timing, I usually downshift a little before I have to start on the gas again, so near the end of your braking.
Understeer - If you are understeering, you've overloaded your front tires, usually from trying to brake and turn too much. The most handy tip for a beginner is that if you are understeering into oblivion, unwind the wheel back to straight. Beginners tend to crank the wheel further or brake harder, which results in even more load on the front. Unwind, and try again. For the Miatas, I think in general we shouldn't really have this problem.
Oversteer - Oversteer is a mixed bag. It can be from braking too hard, mashing the gas too hard, etc. The method of regaining control depends on how you lost control in the first place. If you braked too hard, ease up a little. If you hit the gas too hard, back off a little.
Compensate for Slip Angles - Somewhat related to understeer & oversteer, eventually you will need to be able to compensate for slip angles. This is the angle between where the tire is pointing and where the tire is traveling. In corners, if you are pushing hard enough you will have a little bit of slip angle. Consider this as compensating for the car being a little understeery or oversteery. In both cases, turning in earlier will help you drive the line a little better.

Ride alongs - Ride along with as many different people as possible - people are way more willing to give you ride-alongs when you're new - take advantage of it. If you've been at it for a while, people are less inclined. Ride along with good drivers as well as bad drivers. Sometimes a driver doing something bad can leave as much impression as a driver doing something good. Keep your eyes on what the driver is doing as well as how they drive the course.

--
Beyond this there are a lot of little things you will pick up from attending events that I couldn't think of here. Overall though, I'm really optimistic for this season. We've got the right cars and we've got decent amounts of time to race. Do as much as you can before serious obligations (kids) or anything like that come in the picture. With the amount of driving and codriving you guys will be doing this season, on top of the event previews and reviews, I'm certain you guys will shoot up the ranks in no time. You almost don't need to worry too much about getting faster. It will just happen naturally as you get seat time, whether you're aware of it or not, so enjoy the process along the way. Enjoy starting out slow, learning the sport, finding time, getting faster, beating people you couldn't beat before, and eventually reaching for the top. Don't forget - in the end, it's all just for fun! Good luck!

Fin

Saturday, February 28, 2015

AUTOX: 2015 Autocross Solo Guide - Chapter 7: Mental Game

Guest Blogger Information on:
2015 Autocross Solo Guide
Chapter 7: Mental Game

Chapter 7 - Mental Game

This chapter will be a series of tips and guidelines on the state of mind you want to have and how to be prepared mentally for the race - your mental game. Most of your mental preparation will be long before you ever put the car in gear.

Before the Run

Be ready to go well in advance. You don't want to be fidgeting with your seat, wheel, sitting position, etc. as you roll up to the start line. Be strapped in and ready to go. Make sure you've done all your tire pressure adjustments well beforehand. Helmet should be on long before you get out of grid. I've had so many times where, until the last minute I'm still messing with something - usually my harness or my camera. The end result of this is you feel rushed and unprepared to get into the run. Be ready to go when the starter says go.

Clear out all distractions. Your sole focus for the next 50-60s should be on the race. Put everything else on hold for just one minute. Put your phone on silent - your ringtone going off for 10s in the middle of your run can be extremely distracting. Just before you start your run, take 3 deep breaths - this will help you calm down and focus.

Don't worry about anyone else. It doesn't matter who's ahead of whom or what place everyone is in, or how they're driving or progressing. What happens on your run is up to you and you alone. What's nice about codriving is, sometimes when you're racing other people you think "can I do in my car what he did in his? Is my car capable of pulling off a time like that?" For you two, racing each other, the answer will always be yes. So, don't waste time thinking about that and focus on yourself.

Don't focus on a specific time. That said, we all do this. "I just need a 45.5 to beat so-and-so." "I need to cut my time down half a second." You might want to be careful what you wish for. You might have cut only half a second when someone else has cut a full second. Try to forget about the times you're running. Focus only on driving the course as best you can, and the times will take care of themselves. That said, when you know you are a second behind, it can serve as motivation to run faster. Be motivated by it, but focus on the driving.

Drive the course in your mind before you actually drive it. This is one of the most important things you can do to help your times. By the 3rd run you should have the whole course memorized. If you've got a camera with an LCD screen, review your runs after you take them. Before you get out of grid to start your run, close your eyes and drive it in your mind. Visualize a perfect run and let that be the last thought you have before you take your actual run.

During the Run

Be 100% right from the start. There's no warm up here, except maybe your first run. As soon as you drop the hammer, you need to be 100%. Don't ease your way into it, don't cruise through the first few corners before really getting into it. Shouldn't be too much of a problem for you guys, but after you've done it a few hundred times it can get routine.

Focus on your run, for the entire run
. So many times I've been ready to go at the start and then lost focus somewhere along the run. I'd end the run and realize I'd just coasted through the second half of the course. Not all of that is bad - there's of course a subconscious element to racing, but what you don't want is to realize you weren't pushing hard enough through the entire course.
Keep calm and race on. This is one of my friend's biggest weaknesses. As soon as he makes one big mistake, be it hitting a cone, understeering/oversteering too much, taking a bad line, he's gone mentally that run. All he thinks about is that that happened. You need to be able to forget about it and keep pushing. That run, as long as the cone wasn't the issue, might end up being your fastest run. Even if you coned that run, you need to keep pushing at race speed. 

Have a positive, winner's attitude. We've probably all experienced a time when we were "on fire." Whether it's shooting hoops, bowling, whatever, you just have this confidence where you can do no wrong. Nothing can stop you. Remember that feeling and hold onto it. Carry it into your racing attitude. What you believe is what you get.

Final Chapter - Misc Topics

INFO: Strut Tower Brace

Information on:
Strut Tower Brace

Last revised on March 4th 2015.
If your YouTube channel is named 'Engineering Explained', then I have a problem with the graphics shown below on the right in figure 1.
Figure 1: From the following link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S6H7ZdzBfE
Engineering Explained is a good YouTube channel and this post takes nothing from that. That channel is a great source and inspiration for a lot of enthusiasts though slightly incorrect in the free-body diagram (FBD) for their strut bar video. The comments on the left of Figure 1 explain why.

Furthermore, please see the following figures for an in-depth look at strut tower brace using a simplified McPherson strut assembly.

To simplify the explanation, the following figures make the following assumptions:
- suspension components (bars/springs/dampers) carry no weight/mass
- wheels carry no weight/mass
- car body is semi-rigid body and has mass (weight will be represented by a green arrow). Semi-rigid meaning the body can flex under certain loading and flex is represented by purple moments in rigid body structure.
- control arms are pinned and the top strut tower is fixed supported

At Rest/Driving Straight Forward (without Strut Tower Brace or Sway Bar):
When a vehicle is at rest or driving smoothly forward, the weight of the vehicle is the only acting force on the car. Figure 2 represents the weight of the vehicle in green about the centroid of the vehicle's rigid body.
Figure 2: Simplified cross-section of car at rest or moving forward without strut tower brace.
In this simple example, note the vehicle weight is supported by the control arm and strut tower. The strut towers will carry the majority of the weight. The horizontal dash lines on the control arms are likely force directions to balance the load equilibrium.

Figure 3 below takes a look at half of the car body at rest. The red arrows represent reactions at the links.
Figure 3: Simplified half cross-section of car at rest or moving forward without strut tower brace.

Under Corner Loading (without Strut Tower Brace or Sway Bar):
A strut tower brace (STB) adds rigidity to the car’s body/chassis/structure. Without a strut tower, some car chassis' are allowed to flex creating unused potential energy. The car chassis flexing contributes to body roll for the driver under cornering.

Too much body roll is undesirable because it feels unstable. Wheel traction worse case with too much body roll leads to the inside wheel not contributing to traction under heavy cornering. This means tire grip is dependent on outside wheel for lateral grip (left/right) and rolling grip (driving forward).


Figure 4 shows the same car without an STB taking a right turn. Notice the centrifugal force at the centroid shown in purple.
Figure 4: Simplified cross-section of car turning right without strut tower brace.
The centrifugal force is exerted at all 4 points of contact for the car rigid body. In addition since the car body is semi-rigid, the car body flexes under cornering. The car wants to roll left when it turns right. This flexing is represented by the purple moments at the car body base.

Instead of rolling left, the car body is countered by the forces on the left tire which push the car body back. So as the car is making a right turn, the car body wants to roll left but is pushed back. This creates a flexing of the car body that brings the right half closer to the left half. The clockwise purple moment in Figure 4 represents the moment that is reacted from the left suspension system and the anti-clockwise moment on the right represents the car body wanting to roll left.

Figure 5 below takes a look at half of the car body without a STB turning right. The red arrows represent reactions at the links.
Figure 5: Simplified half cross-section of car turning right without strut tower brace.

Under Corner Loading with Strut Tower Brace (without Sway Bar):
A strut tower brace adds rigidity to the car’s body/chassis/structure. The car chassis is stiffer at the top to decrease flex in the car body. The amount of unused potential energy from car body flex decreases with a strut tower brace and the difference in energy primarily translates forces from the outside wheel system to inside . Stiffer chassis means less body roll, hence a tighter and consistent car body for the driver under cornering.

Less body roll is desirable because it feels stable. Under cornering, force is reacted from the outside wheel & suspension system onto the inside wheel  & suspension system. Tire grip is shared between outside & inside wheels for lateral grip (left/right) and rolling grip (driving forward). Wheel traction worse case with no body roll means an infinitely rigid chassis . Potentially using too much tire grip to keep the car on the road instead of rolling forward. The inside wheel is approximately level to the outside wheel at all times including bumps and potholes. This is undesirable for daily driving.

Figure 6 shows the same car with an STB taking a right turn. Notice the centrifugal force at the centroid shown in purple.
Figure 6: Simplified cross-section of car turning right with strut tower brace.
This car still wants to roll left but the car body is more rigid now with an STB. Assume the STB makes the car from a semi-rigid body to solid rigid body, meaning no flex. The car body maintains the same shape through the turn. 

To help understand the force distribution (and ultimately tire grip distribution) with or without an STB, I will use working out as an example. You can think of adding an STB similar to using workout machines whereas without an STB you are using free weights. You get the most control with free weights and your hands are not dependent on the other. All the weight might rely on one hand. There are little to no additional loads to consider due to independence from the other hand.

You get stability with workout machines but more than likely you will be exerting more force in your workout due to restricted motion. You will get a predicted response path but will have to overcome additional forces due to dependency from one hand to the other. If you have enough strength (aka tire grip) to counter the additional forces, then it is not an issue. While you may have tire grip to spare, you are using more tire faster and reaching the grip limit sooner because of unwanted forces (forces not propelling you in the direction you want to go).

Figure 7 below takes a look at half of the car body with a STB turning right. The red arrows represent reactions at the links.
Figure 7: Simplified half cross-section of car turning right with strut tower brace.


CLOSING THOUGHTS

There is a lot of debate over how much a strut tower brace (STB) helps on a car. The forums range from consumers suggesting rear strut bars only, or STB helps with bumps and road transitions, or STB helps with chassis sag over the years, or STBs are simply placebo mods and have no effect on performance. The costs for STB are typically from $100-$300.

Ultimately it is up to the driver, STB type, and car compatibility. Front or rear STB effectiveness is dependent on chassis stiffness. If you are a serious driver and looking for performance gains regardless of costs, then there are other mods out there better than STBs. If you are an average consumer and the occasional sporty driver, the STB probably adds little to no benefit in terms of performance. For the refined sporty driver that knows their car and is in the middle of a detailed tuning iterations to gain that 1/10th of a second edge, then STBs are a good option. Regardless of the type of driver you are and how our opinions differ, I think at least we can agree that STBs look cool.

Friday, February 20, 2015

AUTOX: 2015 Autocross Solo Guide - Chapter 6: The Line

Guest Blogger Information on:
2015 Autocross Solo Guide
Chapter 6: The Line

Chapter 6 - The Line

This discussion will be geared toward autox specifically. I'll leave out detailing general racing concepts such as the traction circle, early & late apexing, etc. which you can find online anywhere. I'll probably miss a few things as I go along, but I'll try to include whatever comes to mind here.

One thing regarding the traction circle: an important conclusion is that there is a direct relationship between distance and speed. You can take a wider line faster, and you must take a tighter line slower. In other words, the more speed you try to carry through a corner, the greater the distance you will have to travel, if you are at the limit of grip. In many corners, you will have a choice between taking the line tighter & slower or faster & longer. In general, if you have to choose between the two, choose the shorter distance & slower line. With autox not being a high speed track with big straightaways, it's important that you make the course as short as possible for yourself. Trying to carry more speed but having to take a longer line usually does not pay off in autox. Obviously though, you'll want to travel as fast as possible on the correct line.


General

You first determine a general line when you walk the course, though as I've said before it can change when you actually drive it. Often times, regions will have novice walkthroughs that will guide you through the line. While these may be helpful, they take way too long. You can probably walk the course 2 to 2 1/2 times before they get done with one. Just grab a buddy and go. It's an important exercise for you to try to judge the line yourself anyway. The line you want to take will also depend on the car you're driving, though it will more or less be the same. On your course walk, you also need to pick out apex cones as best you can. This will come into play later when you are driving the course.

In general, most corners in an autox are very tight. A lot of times you'll want to be taking a late apex. Trail brake deep into the corner and apex it on the way out. The old adage "slow in, fast out" applies well here. Late apexing will help prioritize the exit. Remember though, the line shouldn't be determined corner by corner. You want to string the entire course together, prioritizing straights wherever possible.


Get closer to the cones

This comes with seat time and getting used to the car. You need to learn the dimensions of the car you're driving. You'll be able to see from videos how close or far you are. Don't be afraid in the beginning to hit cones - I encourage it. That is probably the fastest way to learn how much space you are leaving - and you might be surprised just how close you can get before you actually hit one. One thing you shouldn't do is this - turn-in, oops, think you're too close, pull back and turn again. Once you pick the line and you're on it, commit to it. If you hit the cone, you hit the cone - chances are you probably wouldn't have hit it anyway, so don't bother adjusting your line for it.

If you're leaving a lot of space between the cones compared to someone who is driving right on them, you are probably taking a worse line and leaving a lot of time out there. Consider this - if someone in the same car takes each corner, on the correct line, from braking on entry to powering out on exit, a tenth faster than you - and there are 15-20 corners in an autox, you're giving up about 1.5-2s to that person.

Obviously this doesn't mean you want to get close to every single cone. Keep your eyes open for the apex cones you picked out on your course walk. These are the main cones you want to get close to on your run - imagine they are like shining beacons. You want tobackside these cones - as in, your inside rear wheel should almost be touching them. Backsiding cones will really aid in keeping your line nice and tight, as well as get you to turn in a little sooner.

Slaloms

Pace out every slalom during your walk. In general it's a good practice to have some kind of an idea how far all the elements are from each other. Once you get a good amount of experience, you should know roughly how fast you can go through the slalom based on how much you paced it at and the conditions. For example, I know for about a 30 pace slalom on dry concrete I can keep my foot flat on the gas in the Mini. 25 paces or so, I need to be a hair slower and just maintain throttle through it. 20 paces or less means it's a pretty tight slalom. I'll probably try to dive in, brake hard, and try to power through & out of it. Even though you can tell just by looking if a slalom is fast or slow, being armed with the knowledge of exactly how long it is will help you go through it faster.

Look through the slalom, not at the slalom, not at the cones. Try to center your perspective before entering the slalom. Turn early into the first slalom cone - backsiding cones is very important here. If you get late on the slalom, it's very difficult to recover from it. As soon as you cross the center line, you want to be turning the other way. My instructors told me you want to "slither" through the slalom. You want it to be a smooth, snaky, back and forth rhythm. Going out too far to the left or right in a slalom will eat a huge chunk of time, not to mention be much harder on the tires and potentially upset the balance of the car.

If the slalom gives you a choice of which side to enter on, 4 out of 5 times you'll choose based on what the exit is like. You want to do what is optimal for when you get out of the slalom. Memorize it during the walk so you don't need to think about it. For example, "1st slalom left, 2nd slalom right." Finally, if there is anything remotely close to a straight coming out of the slalom, get WOT as soon as you pass the penultimate slalom cone, not after you pass the last one.

Sweepers, Transitions, and U-Turns

Most courses I've been on will have at least one fairly big sweeper. Small or big, the important thing here is to connect the cone at the beginning and the cone at the end that you want to start exiting by. Essentially this is 2 corners combined into one, and you are double apexing it. Stick by the cones you picked out, keep tight through the sweeper as you go through it, and aim for the exit cone that you picked out.
Transitions are when there are a series of turns, multiple offset gates, chicanes, "S"s, etc. Like I said before, don't get caught up in making a nice, curvy line through it - keep your line as straight as possible through these, with a focus on the exit. Don't be fooled by offset gates and Chicago boxes - these are all just variations of slaloms. Focus on the inside cone of the gate, not the gate itself. Chicago boxes are just tight 3 cone slaloms with a box around it. 

Most courses will have a u-turn somewhere along the way. Either a tight u-turn or even a single cone to go around. Set this up as best you can before you enter, and just be ready to give up speed here. Give up on the entry, slow the car down significantly, and focus on the exit. This applies to tight corners in general.

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Ultimately, you want to not worry about how the cones are set up or what the element is etc., and just stick to the driving line as best you can. There are going to be a million different lines you can take and everyone drives differently. Different lines are suited better for different cars and setups as well. Just remember - get the line right first, then add speed.

Next chapter - Mental Game

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

AUTOX: 2015 Autocross Solo Guide - Chapter 5c: Driving Techniques, Inputs - Braking

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2015 Autocross Solo Guide
Chapter 5c: Driving Techniques, Inputs - Braking

Chapter 5c - Driving Techniques: Inputs - Braking

Braking

You can think of acceleration as managing load to the rear, and braking as managing load to the front. Braking is probably the most difficult input to master. As much variation as throttle can have depending on car, power, tires, and surface, brakes can have all that and more. In general, you want to squeeze the brakes, not slam them. Braking during racing is the opposite of braking during street driving in the sense that when you approach a stop on the street, you coast/light brake, and then squeeze a little harder to make the final stop . When racing, you want to brake hard first (threshold brake) and then ease off as you turn into the corner. 

Before getting into actual braking, I should mention throttle lift. Technically this is related to throttle input (or lack thereof), but I included it here because the purpose of the throttle lift is to shift weight onto the front of the car. Your smoothness or severity will determine how the car behaves when lifting. Sometimes cars just need a little bit more traction in the front to dig into the line a little, and lifting the throttle will put more weight and thus traction on the front end of the car. Completely and suddenly lift mid-corner, and you might find yourself going sideways. Just a slight lift may be all you need to tuck in the nose of the car. This is more actively practiced with FWD/AWD cars that tend to understeer, though it is used by everyone.

As far as actual braking technique goes, keep in mind that neither of the Miatas has ABS. That means we will really need to work on threshold braking. Threshold braking is just a fancy term for braking at the limit of the tires. In cars with ABS, you can squeeze the brakes as hard as you want. You don't have to worry about locking up, as the ABS will pump the brakes for you when you reach that point. With the Miatas, brake with just enough force that you don't lock up the wheels. In other words, you want to brake with maximum force while maintaining static friction between the tires and the road. As with the throttle, this depends on all the different factors of the car, tires, and conditions. Keep in mind that if you are threshold braking, you are using all the grip the tires have - don't plan on steering. Threshold braking is what you will do in the straight line you are taking before you enter the corner.

When you've slowed down enough and reach the point you want to turn, you want to ease off the brakes as you turn the wheel. Picture again the string tied to the steering wheel & brake imagery. As you let go of the brake, the string has more slack for you to turn the wheel. This needs to be a smooth process - you can't just let go of the brake and then yank the wheel. Once you're off the brake, you want to be ready to get back on the gas and unwind the wheel to complete the turn. Again, the key here in all of this is smoothly stringing together all of these actions. Failing to do so can upset the balance on either end of the car. Don't overthink the process either though - doing that will result in you taking corners very slowly. Let your body and your instincts take care of it as you gradually build more confidence and skill.

It's difficult to get into things like when to start braking, for how long, etc. because again all of this depends on the situation. For starters though, most novices don't brake hard enough.They brake too early, too gently, and for too long. You want to get hard on the brakes, and often times for autox trail brake deep into the corner. Trail braking is essentially easing off the brakes for the turn like mentioned before, but it more specifically refers to going deep in and keeping just a touch of brakes on through the apex to keep that weight on the front of the car. A lot of novices completely let go of the brakes once they want to turn and this usually results in understeer, as the weight leaves the front just when you need it the most. Trail braking can prevent that. It will also let you practice late apexing, which is what most autox corners are.

I'll just briefly mention left foot braking (LFB) here. Left foot braking is used by a relatively small number of autoxers and especially FWD/AWD drivers. It is naturally suited for most autoxes because we only stay in one gear, and thus the left foot has some freedom in what it can do. It is also used a lot by rally drivers. LFB basically lets you get in a touch of brakes whenever you want without having to let go of the throttle. There's no time lost in switching from throttle to brakes or vice versa, and helps a lot with cars that understeer, as u can essentially shift weight to the front whenever you need a little more bite. It is also very well suited to turbocharged cars, as it allows you to keep the boost up - there will be no loss of spool when you exit the corner if you never let go of the throttle. For us, for our current level, this is unnecessary, especially in the Miatas. your left foot is not familiar with braking pressure, and you will be locking up the brakes all the time. For now, there are other areas to be focusing on.

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Overall you want to use all of these inputs and driving technique to manage the balance of the car. Through your inputs, you have complete control of the car's behavior and a well set up car should be able to exhibit a wide range of handling characteristics. Your goal in getting seat time is to master all of these inputs to reach a level of comfort in the car where, when you see what lies ahead, you will know what line to take, when to brake, how much to turn, and when to get on the gas.
Next Chapter - The Line

Monday, February 16, 2015

AUTOX: 2015 Autocross Solo Guide - Chapter 5b: Driving Techniques, Inputs - Throttle

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2015 Autocross Solo Guide
Chapter 5b: Driving Techniques, Inputs - Throttle


Chapter 5b - Driving Techniques: Inputs - Throttle

Throttle

Throttle is a fairly straightforward topic, but long enough that I decided to cover it separately here. First, turn off any and all traction control systems. I don't think the Miatas have any, but we'll need to make sure, as the NB might. We also need to learn whether it stays on/off when you turn the car off. Unless we're talking really high HP cars & very, very advanced traction control systems geared toward racing, it will always be slower and intrusive. Regardless, learning how to deal with power and tires slipping will be good driver training. Peak acceleration is with a little slip anyway. Don't worry about shifting either. All you need to do is go from 1st to 2nd and stay there, so go ahead and clear that out of your mind as one less distraction to worry about. Once you get to 2nd gear you're done. Both hands on the wheel and no need to think about it again until you cross the finish line.
The most important thing about throttle application is that you need to roll onto the throttle, not stab at it. Again, you want to be quick but smooth. The throttle is not an on/off switch. This is a little bit more difficult to apply since our cars are underpowered and we can get away with a little more as far as getting on the gas. However, even if we don't have enough power to break traction under normal circumstances, mashing the gas won't net any significant time.Abrupt throttle application can upset the balance of the car/suspension and result in a loss of grip and acceleration. With a high powered FWD car, for example, the initial burst from an abrupt throttle will shift weight towards the back, away from the powered tires, making it more likely to break traction in the front and therefore result in slower acceleration. Obviously with RWD you want the weight to shift back onto the powered wheels - as you load the rear you give yourself more traction in the rear, which then gives you the ability to accelerate faster - however, this has to be a smooth process in order to maintain traction. It is a difficult balance between being smooth with the throttle and yet not lazily slow in trying to do so. It doesn't mean you can't go wide open throttle (WOT) quickly - you can and should, as long as you have the traction to do so.

Traction, and therefore throttle application, will depend on the surface you're driving on - wet or dry, asphalt or concrete, bumpy or smooth, hot or cold, and whether the tires themselves are hot or cold. Especially in the colder months of the season, tire temperatures and the time of day (which heat you run) can have a significant impact on the car's overall level of grip. You just have to experiment & learn via seat time what the car/tires can do. Regardless of condition, being smooth with the throttle will let you accelerate as fast as the car physically can.
I won't get too technical into limited slip differentials (LSDs) but we are fortunate to have some mechanical variant in both Miatas. Viscous LSDs tend to wear out and become open LSDs toward the end of their lives, so I don't think we should be too surprised if the NA spins a tire trying exit a corner, especially since the tires aren't as fresh as the NB's. The NB has a Torsen LSD and should be good as long as we maintain the fluids. It's important as a driver to know what the car has in order to explore what it can do. In this case, you should be aware that with an LSD, you can get on the gas a little bit earlier than without, which will also train you to be smoother. It will allow you to exit faster, and overall carry more speed throughout the course. Remember, you want to get back on the throttle as soon as possible. As soon as you're past the apex (sometimes before), you want to start applying the throttle, quickly and smoothly.

Finally, you never want to be coasting at an autox. This is somewhat of a generalization, and the mindset here is more important than the physical input. In general, you should either be braking, accelerating - however quickly or slowly, or have some kind of maintenance throttle. 

Next Chapter - Driving Techniques: Braking